Steel and Knife Properties

What is the Best Budget Knife Steel?

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Criteria

1) To be a budget steel it must be produced with conventional ingot production. This excludes all powder metallurgy steels, of course, including Crucible CPM, Carpenter Micro-Melt, Uddeholm Superclean, and Bohler Microclean steels. I am also excluding LC200N/Cronidur 30/Z-Finit which is produced with “Pressurized Electroslag remelting” which adds cost to production. This does not exclude steels with a small nitrogen addition like 14C28N, Nitro-V, BD1N, etc. as those are produced with conventional methods they just modify processing to increase nitrogen.

2) I am considering best budget steel in terms of knives with commercial availability as well as steels available to custom knifemakers.  What is best for a custom knifemaker may be somewhat different than what is best in production knives. We will see if this affects our choices and how.

3) I will evaluate stainless and non-stainless steels somewhat separately but preferably the optimum steel would be stainless in addition to having good edge retention, toughness, etc.

4) There are bonus points for a steel that is “fine blankable” as it is less expensive for knife manufacturers to blank out the knife shapes rather than waterjet or other methods.

5) There are also bonus points if the steel can be sharpened with cheap abrasives. As budget-minded buyers probably also look for budget sharpening stones.

6) And there are bonus points if the steel is easy to grind and polish for the knife manufacturer or custom maker. This reduces costs of production making it better for budget knives.

7) I am not considering defunct or extremely rare steels like BG42, 440XH (non-PM XHP), RN15X, or other steels I know about but you haven’t heard of.

Another Caveat

Steel choice does not predict knife performance. The best steel with the ultimate heat treatment will still cut poorly with thick edge geometry. And an ultimate steel with ultimate edge geometry and ultimate heat treatment will not fix an uncomfortable handle.

Steels to Consider

Here is a big table of steels so that you can see the compositions of many of the steels that will be discussed in this article. This chart has both too many and too few steels in it as I’m sure other steels will be brought up but I also have several steels listed that I will not be seriously considering. Some of these steels are available as either a PM or ingot version and I am of course only considering the less expensive ingot version. So CruWear is conventional CruWear not CPM CruWear.

Properties to Consider

Toughness, slicing edge retention, and corrosion resistance are the primary properties we will be comparing. We have done some experimental work on these properties, which are summarized in the charts below. First is toughness, using our subsize unnotched specimens described here.

Edge retention comes from CATRA experiments which were explained in this article. I have also developed equations for predicting edge retention based on microstructure as described in this article. This will allow estimates for steels which haven’t been tested.

I have tested corrosion resistance and developed methods for predicting corrosion resistance, you can read about all of that here.

And here are the predictions of corrosion resistance for a greater range of steels:

Cost of Heat Treating

Cost of heat treating is a bit difficult to write about because every situation is different. For custom knifemakers they are either heat treating in a small furnace in their shop or sending out to an outside heat treater. Outside heat treating services for custom knifemakers sometimes also use small furnaces but there are many services that have large vacuum furnaces as well. Large knife manufacturers using high alloy steels typically also use large vacuum furnaces, either in-house or through outside heat treatment companies. However, some knife manufacturers use other methods like “belt furnaces” where the steel travels on a conveyor belt through a hot furnace and comes out the other side to either cool in air or to be dropped in oil or water. The belt furnace method allows faster cooling rates for low alloy carbon steels that need oil quenches, and can even provide benefits to high alloy steels for achieving higher hardness. For large vacuum furnaces, the cooling rates can be somewhat slow and these types of heat treatments benefit from very high “hardenability” meaning that the steel can be cooled slowly and still achieve full hardness. High alloy steels with very high hardenability have a combination of high chromium (4% or more) plus molybdenum (at least 1%, more is typically better). Steels like 14C28N or AEB-L do not have a molybdenum addition and are therefore sometimes difficult to achieve high hardness levels with large vacuum furnaces.

For forging bladesmiths steels that are “easy to heat treat” include those that do not require extremely fast quenches allowing cheaper oils like canola, and can be fully hardened over a range of temperatures, including temperatures close to where the steel becomes nonmagnetic. You can read about the magnetic transitions in this article. Using a magnet with a forge means the steels can be heat treated without a controlled furnace. This is not a particularly great way to heat treat but many beginner bladesmiths heat treat in this way. Steels like 8670 or 1080 are relatively easy to heat treat even without controlled furnaces.

Simple Carbon and Low Alloy Steels

Low alloy steels in production knives tend to be 10XX (1055, 1095, etc) and simple variants like 1095CV.  These steels are extremely cheap for the knife manufacturer and easy to sharpen for consumers. The edge retention from wear resistance is low because they have a small amount of carbide, and those carbides are the relatively soft iron carbide type (cementite). These steels require a fast quenching rate and therefore equipment specifically targeted at these steels is required. However, if they have the equipment or design their manufacturing process around it they can benefit from very low steel costs and grinding/polishing costs.

Some knife manufacturers will use something like O1 or 52100. These steels offer a bit more edge retention than the simple carbon series and can be quenched a bit slower. However, for a large knife manufacturer if it requires an oil quench there isn’t much difference between steels in terms of what equipment is required.

Of course, regardless of the low alloy steel chosen the corrosion resistance is basically non-existent. Worrying about whether or not a nickel addition to a steel like 15N20 or a chromium addition to 52100 will improve corrosion resistance would still put the steels well below even high alloy non-stainless steels like A2.

With forging bladesmiths they have a wider range of available steels but most of them have relatively low edge retention. The highest edge retention steels in this category are Blue Super and 1.2562. Blue Super is expensive to obtain outside of Japan and 1.2562 is difficult and expensive to obtain anywhere. There are some relatively inexpensive knives produced in Japan, particularly kitchen knives, that are made in Blue Super, however. These steels have somewhat higher edge retention than other low alloy steels but toughness is not particularly high. I discussed in the CATRA edge retention article that iron carbide didn’t seem to contribute to edge retention in cutting the silica paper. If we assume that this is a quirk of the test and that the cementite would show up in cutting other media, the edge retention of these steels would be more like 420 mm, rather than the 350 mm that was measured. Also in a recent article there were new tests by knifemaker Marco Guldimann where the toughness of 1.2562 was improved. However, even if we give the steels the benefit of the doubt and raise their toughness and edge retention scores based on those factors, it doesn’t push the steels to higher levels than the best of high alloy stainless and non-stainless steels in terms of toughness-edge retention balance, and the lack of corrosion resistance in these steels means I cannot name them the best budget steels.

Toughness-Edge Retention Balance

You can have higher edge retention or you can have higher toughness but it is difficult to get both at the same time. So we want to identify steels that have the highest combination of both. There are several high toughness steels in the budget category because it is possible to design steels with low carbide content which improves toughness. With low carbide contents the carbides can be kept small even without powder metallurgy. However, these steels generally have low edge retention. But when conventional steels have significant amounts of carbide for higher edge retention those carbides tend to become pretty large leading to poor toughness. So we end up with steels with relatively high edge retention but the toughness is also pretty low. It is challenging to design steels which strike a balance in the middle somewhere. Powder metallurgy has allowed the development of more steels which achieve high edge retention with decent toughness or steels that strike a more middle-ground in terms of these properties.

The 1.2562 point used the modified values for toughness and edge retention I discussed before. It looks decent, being better than Niolox or 440C though not spectacular. 52100 also has a decent balance of properties for forging bladesmiths. You can see that 8670 has very low edge retention but also manages stellar toughness along with it. A steel like 5160 would be similar. Either of those choices are good for forging bladesmiths that need excellent toughness. 14C28N manages to have very high toughness along with medium edge retention. The most wear resistant steel we are looking at is CruWear which also manages okay toughness at around 9 ft-lbs.

High Alloy Non-Stainless Steels

The ~8% Cr steels like A8Mod, Sleipner, and CruWear manage a pretty good balance of properties along with also having some corrosion resistance. I wrote about the history of these steels and their properties in this article. I haven’t tested Sleipner or similar steels but they would be expected to be somewhere in between A8 Mod and CruWear in terms of toughness and edge retention. So these are probably the best choices for non-stainless steels, in my opinion, though they aren’t particularly common in either production or custom knives.

High Speed Steels

High speed steels generally target high hardness, wear resistance, and “hot hardness” without much focus on toughness. M2 is probably the most balanced of the various conventional high speed steels, with good toughness and relatively high wear resistance. I have only tested the toughness of M2 at high hardness though perhaps in the 60-62 Rc range it could do a bit better for different applications. High speed steels are a decent place to look for very high wear resistance conventionally produced steels, as steels like M4 or T15 have been available without PM processing, though non-PM T15 is probably rare at this point. Those steels have 4-5% vanadium giving them excellent edge retention.

Stainless Steels

Steels like AEB-L or 14C28N manage to have excellent toughness while also being capable of 60+ Rc. The toughness is similar to steels with lower carbon content like 420HC but with higher potential hardness. AEB-L and 14C28N also have moderate edge retention though of course much lower than vanadium-alloyed powder metallurgy steels like S30V or M390. 14C28N is essentially AEB-L (or perhaps more accurately Sandvik 13C26), but with improved corrosion resistance. Despite the improved corrosion resistance, it is still capable of similar hardness (above 62 with cryo), and in CATRA testing it even had slightly improved edge retention. Going any higher in carbon or edge retention means a very large drop in toughness such as Niolox, VG10, or 154CM. There are other steels I didn’t test like AUS-6, AUS-8, or 8Cr13Mov, but those steels are unlikely to have a better combination of properties than 14C28N. So 14C28N has the best balance of the stainless steels in my opinion.

What is the Best?

So after reviewing many of these steels I think 14C28N is the best. It has high toughness, above average corrosion resistance, and decent edge retention. It is also “fine blankable” and easy to sharpen with any stones, which were mentioned as bonus categories at the top of the article. The steel also has high “grindability” and “polishability” which makes costs low for knife manufacturers or custom knifemakers. As mentioned in the heat treating section, the hardenability is not particularly high for a stainless so heat treating in large vacuum furnaces is somewhat more difficult but certainly not impossible. Availability of 14C28N is somewhat worse than AEB-L so AEB-L can be a replacement with somewhat lower corrosion resistance when 14C28N is not available in the right size. I think these steels are appropriate for either knife manufacturers or custom makers so I don’t think there’s much reason to differentiate in that respect. The only exception is forging bladesmiths who tend to prefer low alloy steels and to them I would recommend 52100 for its good combination of toughness, edge retention, availability, and ease in grinding and polishing. For custom knifemakers I have a separate article on how to pick steels.

28 thoughts on “What is the Best Budget Knife Steel?”

  1. Awesome Larrin! I think these steels that you listed are the workhorse of knife steels, and that makes them important. They also are the steels I prefer in a knife.

  2. Wow, another excellent and understandable one for an enthusiast , non metallurgist even one who enjoys math.

    1. The level of retained austenite is highly controlled by the austenitizing temperature. If the steel is heat treated to maximum as-quenched hardness (with the peak austenitizing temperature) or with lower temperatures it shouldn’t be excessive.

  3. Curious to hear your take on AR-RPM9, a recently announced PM steel that Artisan Cutlery is specifically targeting at budget knives. I haven’t seen any info on the composition though

      1. Hi Larren. Now that more information has become available re: AR-RPM9, do you have any insight into its qualities/viability etc? I’m a big fan of CJRB for their entry level offerings when trying to get friends into the hobby so I’m trying to decide if this his a better option than D2. Thanks so much!

        1. I have a Patreon-exclusive article where I discussed the composition and the relative properties but unless I got some barstock to do my own experiments with I don’t think I will do a dedicated article for the website about it.

  4. As someone who sharpens quite a bit (and somehow ended up with a small knife collection in the process), I have to agree wholeheartedly with the conclusion. 14C28N sharpens easy (very easy on diamond or metallic bonded CBN), has minimal burr formation and judging by what I’m seeing from TwoSun and Harnds, is easy and cheap to get to the low 60’s Rockwizzle.

    That said, I love to the see the recent trend from Kizer moving a lot of their budget line into 154CM. That is also an excellent steel.

  5. Finally the truth out here. As a consumer there where so many myths out there. I am so sorry I love the design, finish and grinding on Fallknivens but it just not makes sense to pick VG10 for a larger survival knife. It just does not. Nice for a kitchen knife or small folder. Yes. But that toughess drop for edge retention is shocking and not worth is. Also lamination does not cover the apex nor the tip. So Morakniv did a good job choosing 14C28 for their survival knife the Garberg (about time they start making flat and convex grinds too!)
    kind regards Mattias!

    1. 14C28N gets harder of course, and has a very fine microstructure. The 1.4116 (another designation) that I tested came in low in toughness and looking at the microstructure I found large carbides. I believe with correct processing those could be avoided but I don’t know how common a problem it is or if there are certain steel companies that do a better job. 14C28N, however, is produced by Sandvik and always has a fine microstructure.

  6. For several years one of the most common steels used in the USA is 420 HC but there is little information about it on this site. Knife peddlers and promoters label it “low-end” or “budget” but it generally has far less impurities than most Asian steels. Please give more information about steels like 420 HC that ordinary people are more likely to encounter.

  7. There is very interesting Larrin. Thank you for your job
    What do you think about NITRO-B?

    1. It could have a good carbide structure if made well and the corrosion resistance should be good. Hardness should be 60+ Rc. I’ve never tested any.

      1. Dear Larrin, thank you.
        You are right, the maximum hardness should be 62HRC (according to Buderus tests) and we are going to test the steel in Russia and check the one as well. Perhaps thermocycling can increase the hardness to 63-64HRC.
        I need your technical and professional opinion regarding the steel in comparison with AUS8 (popular in Russia), AEB-L, or 14C28N.
        I’m sure the steel made well because of the production the same as NITRO-V from Buderus plant.
        I can see that NITRO-B has better corrosion resistant from C, Cr, and N content, also impact toughness should be better than Nitro-V, but what about edge retention (for example AUS8 at 58HRC and NITRO-B at 62HRC)? Unfortunately, I don’t have JMatPro or ThermoCalc for preliminary analysis.
        Can this steel claim to be the best budget steel?
        Could you please give me your opinion? Thank you

  8. Hi Larrin, thanks for the insights. Do you have a ft-lbs number or estimate for BD1N toughness? I can’t find one anywhere on your excellent website.

  9. Interesting article and I’m waiting for a folder made of 14C28N, and American made by Bear and Son. I bought a CPM S30V knife by them on sale for $50 that seemed a little too easy to sharpen so I’m guessing they heated the edge when they ground it. Toughest knife I have is a steel you don’t see even by custom makers, S5 at HRC 60-61 hard.

  10. Well 14C28N and its great properties are being bypassed by knife manufacturers using it by only hardening it to HRC56-57 where hardness is advertised or checked. The American made Bear and Son knife I bought gets scratched by my HRC 58 .5 scratcher so it isn’t as hard as this knife should be. 58.5 hard is as low as my scratchers go until 56 and at least it doesn’t scratch it. It is a shame when Cedric and Ada’s comparison charts have it lower than O1 and even 80CrV2 in edge retention cutting rope. Makes me double think how it would perform on cutting fish scales and bones versus 440C. It may cut silica cards well, but apparently not rope.

  11. When comparing the toughness of AEB-L and 14c28n it seems that AEB-L is a little tougher than 14c28n. I was wondering if the 14c28n samples where also prequenched like the AEB-L toughness samples.

  12. Toughness or edge retention pick one we usually don’t get both together. just pick what you need that takes less damage cutting and I think all knife makers in production should use better modern steels and learn to sharpen

  13. There is, in France this fairly new, inexpensive steel called MA5 (X35Cr16N, 0.35% C, 16% Cr, 0.35% Si and Mn, and 0.15% N).
    I suppose that there is no carbide produced, considering the low proportion of C, either from the standard treatment (austenitising temp at 1025C 10 min, forced air cooling at 20C, tempering for 1h at 180C- 58hrc) or from the optimised treatment (austenitising temp at 1075C 10 min, forced air cooling at -80C, tempering for 1h at 180C – 61hrc).
    So I believe this steel could be a contender as a very good budget steel.
    My two cents:
    – toughness better or on par with 420HC
    – edge retention between 420HC and 14C28N
    – corrosion resistance better than 14C28N, 4034/420HC (in a multi-pitting test at 23C, pH=6.6, in a solution of 0.02M NaCl, E0.1=470 mV-ECS for MA5, E0.1=340 mV-ECS for 1.4034, E0.1=360 mV-ECS for 1.4016, E0.1=480 mV-ECS for 1.4509, E0.1=540 mV-ECS for 1.4301).

    Could you be kind enough to give a quick ranking on the three dimensions ? What would be your educated guess?

    Regards,
    Damien

      1. Thank you for your answer.
        Would a ranking at 9 (toughness, around 40 ft-lbs), 2.5 (edge retention, same as 420hc), and 9 (corrosion resistance, better than bd1n and 14c28n) would be a fair enough approximation without any further testing?
        Regards,
        Damien

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